Kefalonia 2016, Staying at Karavomilos.

KEFALONIA BLOG 2016

For my blogs on other islands, click;
Fuerteventura HERE
Gran Canaria HERE
Madeira (2 visits) HERE and HERE
Majorca (2 visits) HERE and HERE

Skiathos (Greece) HERE

Cyprus 2018 HERE

Parga (Greece) HERE

PART ONE - ARRIVAL.

After having visited our first Greek island last year (Skiathos) we were hungry for more! Some friends of ours recommended Kefalonia, so we thought we'd give it a go.

So, it was up, up and away.

After landing, we picked up our car at the airport and drove right across the island to Sami, through the mountains, getting a taste of the fabulous scenery on offer. 

On the way, we stopped at a winery that was open and bought our first Greek wine.

This was our hotel, the Athena. It took a bit of finding, as it's not actually in Sami, where we thought it was. It's actually in Karavomilos, about 15 minutes walk from Sami. Quiet, clean and well situated, we were happy.

We were looked after by the sister of the owner, who didn't speak much English, but later, we met this guy - an absolute LEGEND who's name is Makis.

He owns the hotel, and is the absolute life and soul - I don't think we've ever met a nicer, or more helpful, host.

More of Makis later.

Time to take the delightful walk along the edge of the sea into Sami to eat. 

This is the small, sleepy harbour at Karavomilos.

The view across the bay.

Sami marina in the evening glow.

The ubiquitous ferry, which ploughed back and forth all day, every day, to Ithaka.

There's a great selection of places to eat, all serving similar menus, some doing 'specials', like a T bone steak for 12 euros!

We decided to go traditional on our first night and ate at the Adonis (after tips that it was very good).

Sue had lamb kleftiko, very traditional, and I had a mixed seafood spaghetti dish. Both were fabulous!

A very pretty table light (that looks like roast potatoes) :-)

On the walk back, we noticed these terrapins under the walkway bridge.

The frontage of the Athena hotel at night.

Makis in his usual position. Ready to jump to it to serve you.

Ah, my friends wine Les, and Sue - how are you?

PART TWO

We rarely take a ground floor room, but this one was quiet, with a fairly private patio.

There is no sandy beach as such at Sami or Karavomilos. 

A short drive, or a good hike along the coast brings you to Antisamos beach. Again, not sandy, but has a lot going for it. It's claim to fame is it featured in the 'Captain Corelli's mandolin' film as the place where they landed the tanks. The reason they used this beach is it goes very deep, very quickly. Not good for kids or non-swimmers, BUT great for the likes of us, who love snorkeling and getting in deep quickly. Another plus is there are two cafes, and if you have drink or food, the sunbeds are FREE! Use the second cafe, it's better food, and the prices are much better.

Just HOW close to the sea do you want to be??

You can see how the gravel dips sharply.

Just idyllic (apart from the damn wasps, that made life a bit of a misery, especially if eating).

My little mermaid.

Shots of the fish

Antisamos beach, from the road above.

Sundown, from the same road.

These beautiful, huge trumpet flowers were everywhere.

PART THREE

Tuesday 27/9/2016

Today, we drove to Poros on the S/E coast.

Driving these mountain roads was a real pleasure, with stunning views all over.

At Poros, we walked the long promenade

under a blue, sunshine sky.

Of course, we stopped for coffee in one of

the many cafes on the front.

This was weird, we saw this oven thing mounted

on the back of a tuc-tuc type of vehicle!

It may have been mobile once, but it was patently obvious now that it wasn't going to be moving again....EVER.

(except maybe to the scrap yard!)

We drove on, towards Skala, admiring the rocks in the sea beside the road.

We next reached Katelios, a small, quiet little place where friends of ours stay. They LOVE this place, and we could see why.

We decided to have a cocktail, and maybe eat. We wished now we had contacted our friends, as they were staying here now, but we didn't know their exact location.

Well, by a chance in a million, they saw us as they walked down to their favourite restaurant to eat, and invited us to join them, which of course, we did.

After a most enjoyable dinner and chat, we drove back to Sami very late, crossing the mountains in the dark. With no street lighting for most of the time, you have to keep your wits about you.

PART FOUR.
Wednesday 28/09/2016

The Melissani lakes were on our 'to do' list. These are lakes that were once underground in caves, but the roof collapsed, and left this incredible feature, much loved by tourists.

It was pretty quiet today, and our boatman considered himself a bit of a singer, and serenaded us throughout the trip.

The rock formations are truly amazing, and have to be seen with the eye to be fully appreciated.

Shafts of strong sunlight seared through onto the azure blue, almost mirror-like surface of the lake.

Next, it was the turn of Myrtos beach. This is also trumpeted as one of, if not THE. best beaches on the island. Yes, it's nice, but for me, too regimented and touristy. 

The drive down is steep, with great views over the beach and surrounding hills.

We stayed all afternoon, swimming and relaxing on the pure white sandy beach, before driving back to Sami to shop, eat ice cream, and people watch on the harbour. We then returned to our hotel to a sumptuous meal of local meats, cheeses and wine. Then into the bar for the nights 'entertainment' (this was Mikas holding court, and just mixing with other guests).

PART FIVE.
Thursday 29/09/2016

Assos! This really IS a place to go - our sort of place. I adore driving the mountain roads, day or night, and the way Assos sits nestled in the valley and isthmus between the main and tiny island, makes it even more gorgeous.

Someone is getting a great view when they finally come to live here, perched high above the sea.

Happy bunnies.

Panorama of the view (click on picture for larger version).

The long and winding road (cue song).

Finally, Assos comes into view.

On top of that smaller island are the ruins of Assos castle - 

more of that later.

Who wouldn't be drawn in by this enticing view?

But first, those twisty mountain roads had to be negotiated.

Including avoiding the local goat herd, who were having their afternoon siesta in the shade.

Ever nearer.

What a stunning, quiet little backwater.
There was an old man, sitting in the sunshine on the corner, selling olive oil from very old-looking bottles.
Of course, he spoke no English.

A cafe next to the pebble beach - that'll do.

We ordered a beer and a couple of crepes. I really wasn't expecting what came - they were probably the best crepes we've ever had! 

But, as always, the water was calling us, so we got onto the beach, and set off snorkeling and swimming for a couple of hours.

Panorama.

Sunset was about an hour or so away, so we decided to climb the road to the castle ruins.

This is looking back from that road.

You have a choice of road or path.

Well, Sue will always go on a path, given the choice.

MUCH better, and more dramatic, views from here.

We reached the castle entrance.

Time to explore.

We covered most of the area, checking out the history of the castle, before seeing the sunset was starting, so we got comfortable on the walls, and let the show begin.

Red cliffs, taking on the dying rays of the sun.

A stunning place to watch the sun go down.

To be honest, I've seen many better sunsets, BUT it was near enough for us. We were alone on the top, very romantic, and it was a fitting end to a great day.

We always love the afterglow.

By the time we got back to Assos, it was getting really dark - and we were getting hungry.

This restaurant drew us in, as it seemed well-attended.

Simple, but impressive. The food was too. We were told by some people who live here that the population DIVES in winter, and only a handful of people are fully resident.

Time to make our way back through the mountains on the dark roads. 

You have to hold your nerve when you see this on the satnav screen - and NO street lights!

PART SIX.

Ithaka Friday 30/09/2016

Today we planned to hire a motor boat in Agia Effimia, but we found out (via Mikas) that it was the LAST trip of the season to Ithaka, so all change!
We hurried breakfast and managed to get to the water taxi for 9:30, then to our trip boat to embark.

After a bit of a problem with the anchor entangled on something, the engines roared and we were on our way.

As expected, stunning views on what was a PERFECT day.

It was all blue skies and puffy white clouds, and at about 30C, it was a hot one!

The boat paused at this secluded beach, and we were allowed to go swimming for around an hour. The boat had a rear slide, so lots of fun.

The enines powered up again - next stop Vathy, the capital of Ithaka, with lots of cafes and shops.

There's the slide.

This pretty bike was later ridden past us by a cheery old man.

We all disembarked and went off exploring, trying to decide which cafe to use for coffee.

We explored the exquisitely beautiful back streets. 

We relaxed and had food and drinks at this harbourside cafe. In total serenity, we drank in our surroundings. 

Here's the cheery man!

Cheers, Susie x

This old woman was fishing in the harbour.

She only seemed to catch small fry, but she seemed quite content.

Then it was back on the boat, and head for Kioni for some lunch..

Ahoy there!

A chapel on the way in to Kioni.

This'll do Sue.

Caesar salad and crispy baby squid - mmmmmmm!

Time to chill.

You all know how gorgeous the Greek style of building is - but here's just another photo to prove it.

Quick - fetch a bottle of gin!

A simple old anchor makes a striking photo opportunity.

Later, we boarded the boat for the trip back.

PART SEVEN
Argostoli & the turtles.
01/10/2016

The next day, we did another road trip, this time to Argostoli, hopefully to see the famous turtles in the harbour. Large numbers of them gather there to feed off the detritus the fishermen throw overboard.

It was a lovely drive, and the ubiquitous goats were roadside too.

We parked up (free) beside the sea lake and started to explore.

All manner of transport was available, but we preferred to walk.

HURRAH! The turtles were here.

The fishermen were gutting their catch and throwing the bits to the turtles.

They were loving it!

We wondered what this guy was doing......

It certainly looked brutal, whatever he was doing!

Apparently, doing this tenderises the octopus/squid!

We walked around Argostoli, taking in the sights.

Massive choice of fruit and veg.

Inside the churches (kept immaculately clean by an army of old women volunteers), the decoration was lavish in the extreme!

Olive trees provided much-needed shade.

After spending the morning in Argostoli, we left to go to Lassi bay. It is mooted as one of the best beaches on the island. To be honest, to us it was 'just a beach', and it WAS more commercialised than many places. Not to our taste. We ended up on Gradakia beach, and lazed away a couple of hours there.

SO lucky to have this gorgeous lady as my partner.

The beach at Gradakia

On the drive back, we saw this notice - 12KM to the top of Ainos mountain. Well, as it's the tallest mountain in the Ionians, we couldn't resist, and headed up.

A shame it was a little hazy, but still impressive.

Top seat to watch another sunset.

Again, the haze took the drama out of it, but hey! It was still a lovely situation.

After the sunset, we drove back to Sami and the Lighthouse restaurant. They do great T bone steaks at a very reasonable price. It became our favourite restaurant over the holiday.

PART SEVEN.
02/10/2016

Next day, we drove to Sami, but parked the car up, deciding to walk to Antisamos beach. 

Hmm, was this a good idea? It was quite a lot further than we'd thought, and it was a very hot day. Also, we diverted to try to find some old Monastery. After walking a good distance, we turned back, vowing to return in the car to find it.

We were getting low on water.

Some millionaires house, I'll be bound.

All private, with a private road to it.

If you travel anywhere in Greece, or the islands, you'll see lots of these little roadside shrines, often adorned with fresh flowers or lit candles.

Today, we thought we'd visit Fiskardo, a pretty little harbour town.

Not what you'd call crowded!

The Roman ruined cemetery dating back to.....Roman times :-)

Click on photo to enlarge

Qi

uite a rich undertone here, with lots of quite expensive looking boats tied up.

Always these beautiful trumpet flowers wherever you go.

Ah, I know this one - a passion flower.

Even this old fishing boat was a cut above.

Harbourside cafes were quite busy today,

One mile north of Fiskardo is the beach called Emplisi.

WHAT a paradise this is. You can just see a small shack type thing. The guy here sold cold beers and snacks, fruit etc.

He was telling us about the mountains of trouble he's had (and IS having) with the local 'council' who want vast amounts of rent for him to trade here. As there's nothing else here, I think they should pay HIM, as he's providing a much-needed service.

Later in the afternoon, we had the beach virtually to ourselves.

It was so peaceful, with the soft music from the beach cafe adding to the ambiance.

 Testing the water.

'Warm and inviting' I think was the decision.

 By the time we left, it was deserted.

PART EIGHT
04/10/2016

Next day we were up early, as we intended to hire one of the motor boats. 

The drive over to Agia Effimia is really good for views.

The sea looks calm and inviting.

Lots of boats in the harbour - we found out why - the girl who hires them said they were not hiring today, as the forecast was for high winds.

Plan B was drive back to Sami, and try to find these ruins above the town.

We found the topographic plate, parked under the shade of a tree (we were learning), and set off.

Nice, shady path took us upwards.

 I was really surprised to see fungus -  the first I'd seen, and as it turned out, the ONLY one I'd see on this holiday.

Daisies too.

Stone gates and steps lead to the ruins.

A little lizard darted under our feet in the hot sun.

Great views from up here, a lot less hazy today too.

The story goes, there were 4 brothers who were each given an area of the island. They built these walls with HUGE, and I DO mean big, stone bricks'.

 It took earthquakes to ruin them.

Antisamos beach.

The chapel and old monastery ruins.

If there's a bell - Sue wants to ring it!

Earlier earthquakes had destroyed a LOT of Kefalonia's antiquities, this monastery being one of them,

Great skies today.

After the monastery, we drove down to Antisamos to sun and snorkel the rest of the day.

We stayed until 7PM, then back to Sami for sea bass and chicken souvlaki at the Zerbah restaurant.

We managed a nightcap at the Athina before turning in. 

A great day.

PART NINE.
Car tour 05/10/2016

Next day it was STILL too windy for the boats, we were told, so we decided to do more exploring in the car.

.

We climbed over the mountains on the twisty road, with stunning views to Assos and Myrtos beach.

The headland above Assos.

Myrtos.

This is the sleepy fishing village of Kiriakis. Very basic, but we stopped for a coffee (we were the only customers) We then had an exploratory walk before heading on up the coast

Coffee in the shade.

We dropped down the steep road to Petani beach, the first time we'd seen a beach with rollers coming in.

We settled on the beach, after a very good tuna salad at the cafe, then just lazed (as you do) before wending back to Sami and more T bone & Stifado at the Faros.

PART TEN.
The yellow boats.
06/10/2016

At breakfast, Mikas asked what we were doing today. We said we hoped to go on the yellow boats, at which he whipped out his phone and managed to reserve a boat for us!

When we arrived, ours was the ONLY boat there. The girl said she could have rented it out five times already, but as she had promised Mikas - it was OURS!

Off we set, after a short induction on how to drive and anchor up.

They are not cheap, BUT this was one of the best days of our holiday. Doing something we'd not done before, on a lovely day, feeling like the only two people on earth, as we visited the secluded coves and swam, snorkeled and picnicked the day away.

Yes, after a bit of cajoling from me, Sue took the wheel, and I became the mere cabin boy.

I LOVE this picture of Sue - how happy is she?

Anchor up - straight in!

LOADS of fish.

Views around Karavomilos at night.

Such a sleepy, secluded location.

A joy and oasis of calm at night.

The Zerbah restaurant, just up the road from the Adonis hotel.

VERY Greek, VERY traditional, VERY good.

Tuck in, Sue.

DAY ELEVEN.

07/10/2016

The next morning, it was thundering and lightning, but by the time we'd had breakfast, it was all sun again.

We drove into Sami, and just mooched around, watching the fishermen sorting & repairing their nets.

 Also this (very patient) guy, who was unsuccessful while we were there.

 But, just as we were about to leave - he got one.

I think you'd need JC to make that feed everyone!!

Afterwards, we decided on a last trip to Antisamos.

The beauty of this beach is, although it's small pebbles, you are literally FEET from the sea. It slopes VERY quickly, so you're into deep water and lots of fish within a minute. This was the best snorkeling all the time we we on the island.

The sunbeds are free (you just need to buy a drink), and food is available, if you want it.

That night, the rain and storms returned with a vengeance. We watched, excited, from our patio as the lightning flashed and lit up the sky on our last night!

Next morning, it was off to the airport.

These vintage planes are used to fight fires.

On a packed flight, we set off for home, having REALLY enjoyed Kefalonia. 

We will certainly return, and probably to the same hotel, as Mikas is such a great host.